Hiker Biker Camping
We came for the comfort, we stayed for the company
It was a fresh and cloudy morning in Northern Oregon. The sun had not risen yet and the tent walls were all damp with morning dew. I had drunken far too much water before bedtime and it was about time to empty that bladder. The portaloo was surprisingly clean. The cold air kept the odors at bay. On the way back to the tent I met another early riser. It was one of the tattoo artists from San Francisco who had started the campfire last night. We quietly whispered “good morning” and went back to our respective tents. Roberto was up already, so we decided to get an early start.
We picked up our things quietly, so we wouldn’t wake anybody, but it didn’t take long and there was some movement and murmur in the other tents too. This was our first night at a hiker biker campground and we had spent it with another six cyclists at the Beverly Beach State Campground.
Jeff and Jesse, the tattoo artists, had their tents halfway packed already, while the fast cyclist from Czech Republic was sipping his tea. Josh from Australia was busy with his stove. Last night he had prepared five-star dishes with his camping stove and we all shared all our food. As we would find out later, this was quite common between cyclists. That way everybody can try something other than the boring same food they have every day.
A lot of fellow bike travelers don’t see the point in staying at campgrounds. “I don’t need to empty my sewage, use the playground, cook in the provided kitchen and park a huge caravan. I just need some 4 square meters space and maybe some water. And I won’t pay tremendous amounts of money for that.”
While a normal tent site at the Beverly Beach cost $ 21, we paid no more than $ 6 each. That’s thanks to our lack of vehicles.
Both Hikers and cyclists are allowed to spend the night at the hiker biker spots. Most people we met were cyclists, but at the Hearst San Simeon State Park we met four German hikers (hiking in two separate groups). Two of them left all their stuff with the other two and – after a long day on the road – walked all the way back to the shop to grab some wine and chips. Of course it was far too much for the two of them, so we helped with the wine. Then there were six homeless people spending the night with us at the Veteran’s Memorial State Park campground in Monterey. That day it was our turn to share food.
Fortunately we had just stopped at a local vegetable stand earlier that day and had quite some food to spare. And there was Zach, who travelled up north on a skateboard. We were quite excited to hear more about this way of travel, so this night’s entire group pitched in for his dinner. Even Willow, who didn’t bring a stove, sponsored some of her cliff bars and turned them into a peanut-butter-jam-cake for dessert. You get the point – food is of major importance, both for the calories, as well as for social reasons.
Just how many of the car drivers and motorcyclists have always helped us out, we were happy to be able to return the favor whenever we met somebody who moved slower than us.
Several of Oregon’s and California’s State Park Campgrounds provided a Hiker Biker Area, reserved specifically for cyclists and hikers without vehicles who weren’t planning on staying more than one or two nights. While it was crucial for most people, to reserve a campspot prior to arrival, we cyclists and hikers were welcomed on a first-come, first-served basis. And even when the area was packed there was always space for one or two more tents. It had happened more than once that the camp host decided to open up another regular site for hikers and bikers, so we could spread out and wouldn’t have to squeeze too much.
Just once it was so full that we had to move into the bushes, but that was fine, because it was our Korean friend Jin’s last night on the coast, he was going to continue his ride inland, and he bought so much beer for the four of us (Jeff, Jesse, Roberto and me) that despite roots and shrub we slept like little babies that night.
Despite them paying less, cyclists were treated as equals to people on a full-price site. And it makes sense. Take Oregon as an example. The state has made cycling quite easy, with many bike paths in towns, scenic bikeway routes in the countryside and bicycle trails everywhere in between. There are free high quality state maps (even free bike maps) and most touristic information booths provide “bike friendly” service, including free toilets, free Wi-Fi, free service and information, bike stands and free water.
The signage to the bike routes is mostly intact and easy to understand. In Portland, also known as the USA’s bicycle capital, it is easy to take bikes into public transports. There are many and more bike only paths, shared paths and bike routes. One of the bridges that crosses the Willamette River is made for cyclists, pedestrians and trolley only!
In the countryside there are frequent rest areas with tables, state parks with camping options and even hotels. And it pays out: In 2012 it was bicycle tourism that added more than $ 400 million to Oregon’s economy. The money went not only to hubs such as Portland, the Crater Lake and the dunes, but spread all over the place, supporting several small villages, that – due to the PCT were now full of hungry and tired tourists on wheels.
Oregon is known to be bike friendly and as a result, the bicycle tourism there is growing constantly. The Oregon Parks and Recreation Department did not leave this unnoticed, but kept on opening more hiker biker areas and improving the existing ones, by adding more fix-it stations, shelters for groups, food lockers and other bicycle friendly amenities.
There are hiker biker state campgrounds in several states in the USA. We have visited 12 different ones in Oregon and California and are now curious to visit many more states with Hiker Biker Camping.
In the case of the Pacific Coast Bike Route, most state campgrounds were less than 60 miles apart from each other, that’s just below 100 km and – especially with the constant tailwind – not too much, even for fall and short daylight.
Most Hiker Biker Parks charged $ 5, some asked for $ 6, only in Southern California prices went up to $ 10, but Southern California generally is a pricey area. In my personal opinion that’s still a fair price, if you consider the cost for rent anywhere close to Los Angeles.
The Hiker Biker places vary a lot, some have coin-operated showers, some have free showers, some have separate small camping spots, and some offer one big area for everybody. Most of them had raccoon-safe food lockers. We’ve camped in the sandy dunes, on grass, on dirt, and in the forest. A few times there were public electricity outlets and once we’ve even found a bike stand for repairs and a pavilion with banks and tables for shelter. It is important to bring the exact fee in cash, as most sites operate via self-check in.
Yes it is romantic to camp all alone on an empty beach or in the forest. And no, we didn’t really need any of these amenities. Yes, at first it was the luxury of having a safe place for the night with portaloo and a shower that pulled us into the Hiker Biker spots. But the reason we kept looking for one almost every night was the community. Most of the days every little group stayed together and the only time we met other cyclists was in cafés, shops, on shady picnic spots and wherever there was free Wi-Fi or cheap food. But came nightfall they all ended up at the Hiker Bikers. We wanted to hear if everything was okay with someone’s spokes, if the others had also ended up in the same delicious bakery, if we were the only ones who had gotten lost.
The Hiker Biker Campground was where we would cook together, exchange stories and help each other out. No matter if we were old friends or had just met a minute ago, in the travel cyclist’s community it is absolutely normal to share food, spare parts, voltaren cream, shampoo, beer, fuel for the stove and maps with each other. We knew we could rely every single one of our camping neighbors.
Usually somebody would start a fire and then little by little everyone present would come closer and make friends. At the Standish Hickey State Recreation Area near Leggett in Northern California we met several new faces. Jeff and Jesse started the campfire and there they came. Willow had the habit of drying out her padded bike shorts near the fire, so she could use them again next day. 16-year old Steve copied that idea and it didn’t take long until all of us sat around the campfire fanning out our shorts, shirts, bras and socks. Imagine waving your sweaty shorts in front of your work colleagues, your parents in law, or your child’s teacher. Yet, in front of complete strangers who had also spent the day on the bike, it was somehow socially acceptable.
The teams would mix up, some cyclists would go slower, take a few rest days, others would speed up. Sometimes there were even people going in the opposite direction. But there were a few who we kept on meeting over and over again. We got along so good with Jesse and Jeff, that we ended up combining forces and we biked together for two weeks all the way to San Francisco.
Or take Josh from Australia. We met him in Northern Oregon and kept on running into each other over and over again and finally – despite him being much faster than us – biked together for his last two days. It was more than 2,000 kilometers until we finally parted in San Diego, Josh’s final destination.
On that first hiker biker morning at the Beverly Beach Hiker Biker Place, we were particularly lucky. Our area was equipped with outlets and some very nice soul had left a water kettle for everybody to use. We prepared ourselves some tea and coffee and chatted with the others.
The sun had risen and there was a light drizzle when we were finally ready to leave. We shouted “see you later” and headed off into the rain, hoping that tonight’s Hiker Biker place would have some kind of shelter for the wet clothes.
If you’re hooked now, here’s an Oregon Coast PDF including information to all hiker biker campgrounds on the way, and here’s all California State Parks. If you click “by feature” you can select to show only Hiker Biker sites.
Enjoy the ride, the campfires, the chats and the company!
Want to read more? Here`s our experiences cycling in Oregon, Northern California, Central California and Southern California.
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