So our New Zealand Visa would expire after a year. What to do if we wanted to travel for longer? Well, there was always the option of a good old fashioned Visa Run. And as there are no land borders into New Zealand we had to fly somewhere.
Diving in the sea
Roberto and I took this as reason enough to visit beautiful Tonga in the South Pacific. Situated in between Fiji, Samoa and the Cook Islands, the Polynesian Kingdom has never been colonized by anybody.
Bike trip to the East of Tongatapu
Backpacking Tonga has been a great experience. The entire Kingdom has less inhabitants than Christchurch and life just has a slower pace. This is what we enjoyed to the fullest.
Typical Tongan shelter
There are many beaches, forests, caves, cliffs and much much more. We have had the chance to visit three islands: Tongatapu (the main island), ‘Eua (with plenty of nature and hills), and Pangaimotu Island, a small island very close to Nuku’alofa.
Ha’aluma Beachfront in ‘Eua
Sunday is church day. Tongans aren’t allowed to work, do sports or cook. So most people spend their Sundays reading, playing, eating and going to church several times. Recently bakeries were allowed to open on Sunday, because it has happened several times that tourists didn’t know that they had to buy food in advance, and stayed hungry.
All churches are full on Sundays
There are no flights operating, no buses running and no shops open on Sundays. Yet most guesthouse owners, few taxi drivers, all priests and the driver of the Pangaimotu ferry work on Sundays.
Camping on Ha’aluma Beach
Religion plays a big role in Tongan culture. The most important things are the king and royal family, the church and the family.
Climbing the world’s biggest Ovava tree
Many Tongans belong to the Methodist Church, and many others to the Church of Tonga, the Free Church of Tonga, the Latter-Day Saints, the Anglicans, the Seventh Day Adventists, the Mormons, Jehovah’s Witnesses, and the Catholic Church.
Newest family member
Family extends to the entire family, including all cousins and their children.
Family visit in ‘Eua
In Tonga all of the father’s brothers are a child’s fathers and all mother’s sisters are their aunts. The father’s oldest sister is the head of the family.
Ha’aluma beach in ‘Eua
Tonga’s official languages are Tongan and English. But Tongan is spoken in most people’s houses.
There is always water in the woods. And if you don’t find it in its liquid form, you can always grab it from a branch
In 2014, the Tonga Daily News published an article that claimed, that Tonga was, by percentage, the world’s most overweight country. Followed closely by four other island states. It didn’t state if the term “overweight” was used by measuring the people’s BMI, because Tonga is also a country of very strong bodies. Many people are skilled climbers, passionate boxers and great Rugby players. They are packed with muscles and weigh more than their BMI would allow.
The Tongan food is just delicious. On big celebrations an entire pig is baked in an underground oven. A lot of vegetables and roots are eaten throughout the day and coconut oil is present in most dishes. Another specialty is ‘Ota ‘Ika, raw fish with lemon and/or coconut milk, onion and other diced vegetables. This was my absolute favorite.
Delicious ‘Ota ‘Ika with Taro fries
Dance and Music are important to the Tongan culture. Sometimes, when we rode our rental-bikes alongside a school, we could hear the kids practicing inside.
Roberto enjoying Pangaimotu Island
Rental bikes were easy to get. They were expensive as compared to Laos, but cheap compared to New Zealand. Eight out of the ten bikes had been rented, so we had to cope with the two worst ones.
One of the really big churches. Many other ones just looked like regular houses
Mine was so tiny that my knees hit the handlebar in curves and my calves and thighs touched when I pedaled. There was a backpedal-brake only, but it worked good enough.
My mini-rental bike. There’s a cheap bike rental in Nuku’alofa just two houses east of the official Tourism Information
Roberto’s bike was slightly bigger and even had two brakes. But the saddle had been replaced with an awkward wooden board that was covered by something soft. His feet would pedal behind his butt and the cycling experience felt quite weird. But even Tongatapu, the country’s biggest island, is still small enough to be explored on those kind of bikes.
Holidays in Tonga!
We visited Tonga at low Season. There were no whales to swim with and we had quite a bit of rain. But the whale tours were above our budget anyways, the rain felt rather refreshing after a long day in the sun and we never had to pre-book any guesthouses.
Camping at Taina’s Place in ‘Eua
We had a great time, entered a pitch black cave and jumped into an underground lake, camped at a beach, jumped off a ship wreck, got lost in the fields on the way to a beach, walked through thunderstorms, went to church twice, saw traditional dances, cycled the island and met plenty of interesting people.
There’s a flight (the world’s shortest commercial flight) to ‘Eua and most days there’s a ferry too. We decided to take the ferry.
Our 13 days in Tonga were relaxing, interesting, delicious and adventurous. We’d come back immediately.
There was plenty of space on the deck.
The waves did trouble me a bit. I decided to go somewhere near the water – just in case.
The sea was calm at first, the rougher. Just next to ‘Eua, the sea is 10,882 meters deep! This is how it looked like to me, just before I let go of my breakfast.
Travel Diary entry with realistic art showing our very scary ferry ride over from Nuku’alofa to’Eua.
Our host Tivo works full time as a nurse in the hospital. Her femily helps her with the guesthouse business. Next to Tivo: co-backpacker Albe from France.
Camping at “Taina’s Place”. The guesthouse is named after the owner’s late wife.
Albe, Roberto and I did a short hike to the Ha’aluma beach
Many different colors in the shore of Ha’aluma beach
The reef kept the big waves out and we could swim without worries
Cute little guy
Beautiful camp spot
Rocky beaches in ‘Eua
Nature’s Wardrobe
We watched the sunset and danced under the stars. Improvisation is everything!
Our little perfect swimming lagoon full of tiny blue fishes
‘Eua is famous for its hiking trails, nature, caves and cliffs. Tivo’s cousin Matthiew guided us through the paths.
He showed us how to find water in the rainforest, when there was no stream nearby
One of the two biggest Ovava trees in the world
Very old Ovava tree
We climbed it up, but not all the way
The trails led through forest, high and sharp grass and through rocky surface
Everybody tried the fresh water from the stick
Matt opened a coconut so fast, I couldn’t open a can of coconut milk in that time.
Rat’s cave in ‘Eua. No rats though. But an absolutely stunning view down into the National Park.
Matt, Albe, Roberto and Annika
The upside of all the rain in ‘Eua: Everything is green.
Little break
We were very exhausted after this hike.
Tivo’s stepdaughter Luisa took us with her to the Church of Tonga’s service. We had brought long and formal clothes for this day, to show our respect. They didn’t match, but this was as good as we could do. Dog Fiff goes everywhere, the family goes.
We should have brought a fan to church
The youngest dress up for church just as the older ones do
Went for a walk to Fangalahi Beach. But after 2 1/2 hours of walking we still couldn’t find it.
So near and yet so far
Wolfgang from Germany worked at the Ovava Tree Lodge in ‘Eua. In his free time he built himself a Polynesian boat that he wants to travel through Tonga with.
This is Wolfgang’s beauty
Paula invited his cousin Ofis to visit him in ‘Eua. Before his return to Nuku’alofa he bought a huge fish at the market, that he brings back as a wedding gift for his brother.
Paula and his father (or cousin?) Finao started the Ovava Tree Lodge. But Wolfgang built it.
Everything was made of wood and everything just worked perfectly fine! This was the perfect blend of nature and comfort.
Hike along another beach in ‘Eua
It was a bit of a hike but we did reach our first nice and sandy beach after all.
Finding our way to the island’s nice beaches
Beach and sunshine. Could this day get any better?
This was totally worth the hike through rocks, horny bushes and saltwater.
Little paradise bay only for us
It was a hot day and Roberto needed refreshments.
Our new friend Ofis was on the same ferry back to Nuku’alofa.
I had been scared of the ferry back to Tongatapu, but fortunately the waves were easy and my stomach prepared. Roberto did not have any troubles at all.
Not only persons take the ferry from ‘Eua to Nuku’alofa
Kids in Tonga wear school uniforms
Jump into the sunset
Pigs, cats, dogs and chicken are present everywhere all the time.
The King’s tombs back in Nuku’alofa
We biked to a little cave in the East of Tongapatu. It was pitch dark inside, but we brought headlamps. In the end of the path there was a black and still freshwater lake
We lit all candles that we could find. Some young locals came and jumped right into the underground lake. It looked dangerous and scary, but after some ten minutes and zero injuries, we decided to try it for ourselves.
We spent our second visit in Nuku’alofa with Yvette, the Backpacker’s Townhouse‘s owner. She was so sweet and caring, we felt like a part of the family!
We grabbed our bikes to cycle to a nice beach on the westernmost part of Tongatapu. Here we met a group of locals and visitors who gave us a ride in their pick up car.
Our nice little travel group. As we found out later, Ofa (in the grey shirt)worked for the Prime Minister’s Office and his Brother and wife from Samoa, who lived in Auckland, New Zealand, came for a visit.
Ofa knew all the cool places. His family still lived in Christchurch, but he had to return. Now he hopes that they can visit each other four times every year.
We took a detour to visit Ofa’s sister’s grave. She was a catholic nun and was buried in catholic grounds that one day will turn into a monastery.
This night we did the single most touristy and awesome thing: We visited a traditional Tongan feast with Tongan food and dances. Cheapest booking is with the official Tourism Information.
On the following Sunday we visited the big church in Nuku’alofa before we headed to the beach
The music gave me goosebumps
Memo to self: bring a fan to church!
There was a dog, all windows were open and kids argued, until their father grabbed them by the arm and carried them outside.
Everybody meets at church
Boys in Tongan school Uniform
Time for a last visit to the beach
Who needs a motor if the sea is so calm?
Perfect weather and a great great beach!
Our Italian friend Bruno was full of energy and jumped, swam and run most of the time
Great times with our Argentinian friend Favi in Pangaimotu
The water was crystal clear and warm as a bath tub.
Locals n a ship wreck. Earlier this day, the four of us have also climbed and jumped the wreck. But our techniques didn’t look half as elegant as the locals’.
Starfish!
Floating Roberto
Walk along the beach
Very refreshed
Goodbye Pangaimotu Island!
The best beach day ever!
We took the very last ferry back to Nuku’alofa. One young passenger brought music and before we knew it, the entire group of passengers – including ourselves – were singing loudly “Eye of the Tiger” and “Charma Charmeleon” and taking turns in holding one passenger’s cake. Great people. Great ride.
Cute little ones
Hugging goodbye our new friends and hostesses Yvette (middle) and the lovely Regine from Fiji. These two were the most caring friends and I will never forget all the laughter. We had a wonderful time at their guesthouse.
Time to hop back over the ocean to …
… New Zealand
How Awesome!!! It was our pleasure to have you stay with us at the Backpackers Townhouse in Nukualofa, Tonga. Thank you for sharing your travels and you are truly blessed. Ofa atu. Yvette
Hello Yvette!
We’ve had such a great time with you at the Backpackers Townhouse and we are so thankful how you’ve taken us in, cared for us and made us feel like we were a pat of the family. I hope some day we can meet again!
Many many hugs,
Annika
Hey! I’m potentially planning a trip to Tonga, this was so useful – thank you! Loved your pictures. 🙂
Hi Liberty,
thanks a lot, I bet you’ll have a wonderful time. Tonga is amazing and I really hope we can return some day.
Cheers from Germany,
Annika
Thanks, very informative and helpful to plan my trip to Tonga. I will contact Yvette after your recommendation